Dia de Todos Los Santos in Málaga

You may have seen by now in the local supermarkets, the sections dedicated to Halloween, a U.S holiday that has been adopted now worldwide.

This adoption in Inland Málaga only really began around 10 years ago and has been growing ever since, 2016 easily beating previous with regards to decorations and festivities. Never have I seen so many carved pumpkins and bags of themed sweets.

In Spain however it’s not the 31st that is traditionally celebrated, but the 1st of November. It’s a day known as Día de Todos los Santos (All Saints Day, in English).

This Catholic public holiday is dedicated to honor those that have passed. People often visit the cemetery on this day to lay flowers, traditionally chrysanthemums, and pay respects. You will actually notice that the cemeteries leading up to and after this holiday are immaculately decorated with floral designs left by loved ones. This tradition is especially popular with the older generations, some even taking time before the 1st to go and clean the grave to prepare it beforehand.

As for most public holidays in Spain, there are also traditional things that are eaten too! On this occasion the sweet treats prevail, the most popular being:

Buñelos de Viento (Doughnut balls of the wind): Doughnut balls filled with fresh cream, crème patisserie or chocolate. This baked good was created during the reign of Felipe II towards the end of the 17th century when it was believed that eating one of these doughnut balls would save a soul from purgatory.

Huesos de Santo (Saint’s Bones): these are finger-like tubes of marzipan filled with a sweet egg yolk mixture. The name comes from the bone color they turn when baked.

Panellets: originally from Cataluña, rounds treats are made of almonds, potato, sugar and pine nuts. It is suggested that these are enjoyed with a glass of sweet moscatel wine.

Are you going to celebrate Día de Todos Los Santos?

Grapevine Properties SL
Guaro, Málaga
www.grapevine-properties.com

Spain on 带 路

Do you know what these Chinese characters stand for?

If so, congratulations, you are more 21st century than 99.99% of humanity. For you have heard of the most grandiose project of our time – connecting 60 countries and influencing the world economically, socially and politically. And you even recognise how the Chinese refer to it. Welcome to 带 路… or OBOR.

‘One Belt, One Road’

Also named The New Silk Road, that trade route that connected China with the Middle East and Europe for over 1000 years. And which is the inspiration for this mind boggling project.

What is it?  China wanting to connect over 60 countries by means of roads, trains and shipping routes. The BELT goes over land in the north, the ROAD is the shipping route in the south.

one-belt-one-road

And it all ends in Madrid. So, yip, Europe is not out of the picture yet, we might all still feel the fringes of its waves.

What’s so spectacular about OBOR?

China buying a harbour such as Piraeus in Greece? OBOR.
A 3000 km long railroad through the Amazone? OBOR.
The duration of shipping routes slashed in half? OBOR.
Previously half forgotten countries as Georgia and the -Stans becoming the new hubs of 60% of the world’s economy? OBOR.
Not the best of friends – Russia, India, China – at least integrating a bit economically, which is always the best foundation for peace? OBOR.
The Chinese for years having been constructing motorway in East Africa? OBOR.

It is intended to improve, intensify and lift up the whole economy and be mutually beneficial for all countries on the belt. Arguably especially China: monitoring the tests of trains between Madrid and China, the Spanish are not very impressed so far: the trains arrive full but mainly leave half empty back to China, so it’s not greatly improving the export (of olive oil).

‘We’ve had a difficult century’

Leave it up to a Chinese diplomat to say such a thing. If your language is 5000 years old, very roughly competing with the likes of Hebrew and Persian, and you can recall cultural highlights of 3000 years ago – one does not have a short time attention span. We could guess that OBOR has been in the ropes for – and aimed at – a very Chinese ‘while’.

OK, we are at the fringe of it, an ‘end station’. Which is better than 130 other countries can say – and if you live in Andalucia, it’s not because you want to be in the centre  of it all. But but but  it’s pleasant to know though that also in the 21st century, our country will still be a ‘player’. Also Málaga with its ‘Málaga Valley’ project is a great sign that at least this corner of the sleepy Old Continent intends to forever keep reinventing itself.

See you soon at Malaga Maria Zambrano, buying a ticket to Peking.

We hope this article , as any other, was a garden carried in a pocket. May your business flourish, and wish us a long life to share the beauty of this graceful autumn light.

Grapevine Properties
Guaro, inland Málaga
www.grapevine-properties.com

About the Flemish, the Flamenco and the flamenquin

Everyone the world over might know the song ‘Y viva España‘.
Few know though that this was a Flemish song, written in 1971 – in Dutch – for the singer Samantha from Antwerp.

(Flanders is the Dutch speaking north of Belgium: because of the typical accent it’s often referred to as ‘Flemish‘).

The Flemish and Spain: a few conquests but mainly a love affair – and one that goes back 600 years. And Spain has always been sending kisses back. You don’t have to monitor the voting behaviour at the Eurovision Song Contest to see there’s forever a silent greeting between the 2 people. For example…

1. Meet the flamenquin, the dish

meaning-of-flamenquinLong, thin and blonde.

Thus the inventors of this very popular Andalusian sausage roll did not have to think long about a name for it:

‘Flamenquin’, or little Fleming!

That was in the 19th century in Córdoba, so one could wonder why a Cordobese of that century had to think about an inhabitant of Flanders when serving a sausage.

Why, say, not the Vikings?  Well, probably nobody remembered them. Whereas this person…

2. Meet Charles V, the emperor of emperors

Or, in Spain better known as Carlos I of Spain.
This best known of all emperors of the Holy Roman Empire was born – and had his seat – in Ghent in Flanders.
charles-vFrom there this heir of 3 leading dynasties ruled over not less than 4 million square kilometers. His empire was the first to ever be described as ‘the empire on which the sun never sets‘.

When in the 16th century he traveled to his castles in Sevilla and Granada, he did so with a very, very large entourage.

In those days that must have been quite the spectacle, such a colourful and long convoy criss crossing mountains and villages. Thanks to the flamenquin we can safely assume they were mostly blonde, tall and thin (or otherwise a real dish).

Just one part of the convoy consisted of his own musicians, playing music ‘a la flamenco‘ – or like a Fleming. This is almost surely the reason why the word ‘flamenco‘ slipped into the Spanish language – and why the weeks long parade left such a mark it sunk deep into the collective memory.

3. Meet Flamenco, the music and dance style

Now, the question remains how that word ‘flamenco’ then got attached to the music we know nowadays. After all, that music or dance style is not Flemish at all.  And the art of Flamenco was only born in the 19th century.

musicians

One train of thought is that it was Andalusian humourthe first singers and players of Flamenco to be gypsies, short, stocky and dark.

But in fact it’s one of these mysteries of history, the reasoning or links lost in the mist of time: myths tend to have a long lifespan.

(Just think of how we still speak of Gypsies, centuries after we know they do not come from Egypt).

Not a myth: also that other Superstar of the Holy Roman Empire, Charles the Great, or Charlemagne, the first unifier of Europe after the crumbling of the Roman Empire, was thought to be born in current day Belgium: in his case in the French speaking region.

in 2016 the Belgians are thought to be 5th on the ranking of which nationalities buy most property in Spain – after nationals from the UK, France, Russia and Germany. In inland Málaga they are almost equally divided between Dutch- and French speakers, and a few German speakers from the small German speaking eastern part of Belgium).

‘Eviva España’

That, by the way, was the original title of the song. It was a spelling mistake: the word ‘eviva‘ does not exist in Spanish.

The song was surfing on the birth of the popularity of beach holidays abroad – and the knowledge of the language still had to follow. Today, Spanish is the 4th most popular language to study in Belgium – and that’s quite something since the other languages or more or less compulsory or national languages.

PS: On October 1, 2 and 3 you find us on the Second Home Expo at the Expo in Brussels. 

A bientôt  / Tot gauw – in French, Dutch, Flemish, English, Spanish…

www.grapevine-properties.com 

The original version:

Other songs you didn’t know where from Belgium:
– Pump up the jam
– The Way To Your Heart
– Hey, even Gotye of Somebody That I Used To Know was born in Bruges as Wouter De Backer

Autumn in Inland Málaga

The older we get, the more we like the middle seasons.
Summer is too much ‘in your face’ – a hamburger in comparison to the nouvelle cuisine of spring or autumn.

Guaro-Malaga

And of the 2 middle seasons, autumn is mostly for gourmets.

One by one, all the guests and holiday renters and day trippers and tourists are saying goodbye – and we are going to have the valley again to ourselves. No feeling is more lovely and luxurious. The soft weather, the sunbeams of gold, the incredible play of shade and light – suddenly  we pick up on it.

With a now pleasant sun and warmth, instead of the knock-out effect of the summer heat, it’s the time of city trips to Seville or Cordoba, it’s the time of enjoying long, slow hikes in the hills, a slow and impromptu exploration of a nearby village, the ideal time for property viewings, the tranquil chatter on terraces and the waiters and cooks again having time…

Just seize the day and decide to drive in any direction, whether it’s to follow a rio, hike up or around a mountain, to get a feel for the birth region of Seneca, the Roman Emperors Hadrian and Trajan (southern Iberians, of course),  or García Lorca for that matter, or the composers Manuel de Falla or Paco de Lucía… or… or… Andalucía is one big cultural treasure chest.

And october – the loungy after-party – is everyone’s favourite season. It’s got ‘duende‘.

andalusian-tilingA pleasure for the eyes

“You’ve got watches, we’ve got time”. 

October is – art. The time, tranquillity and space to actually pick up on that formidable geometry and feel for design that is all around us.

It’s but one of the remaining treasures of the Moorish era, this heightened sense for the importance of geometry, not just in some museum but everywhere and for everyone. Long before we humans learned to read, we ‘read’ skies, the ambiance around a cave, the position of leaves and the patterns in nature – which is the reason why geometry or the trickling water of a fountain can have such a soothing effect on us: it’s literature avant-la-lettre.

We’re no longer studying life, but letting it study us, the still life of the Andalusian earth colours and the conjoint of the village houses with their brown and golden tiles, the shadows of the ‘rejas‘ – all responsible for this glow of an ‘indian summer’ like quality. Many a small Andalusian village still projects this importance of the unity and the community: it’s not one white house that projects an identity, but all of them together. It’s not one golden coloured facade, but the web of them that make the evening light so special. Once again individuality-within-the-community, with the latter always being a tad more important than the first.

andalusian-tilesFestivals? Fiestas?

Hurray: there are none!
That is: we all have our local favourite one, but there are no Musts. October is deliciously free of Musts. It is here to recover from all those months of Musts, all the socialising and hosting and running from barbecues to pool parties to national and regional holidays.

The sun will set a bit earlier every day, and then, then we will soon feel Halloween coming up.

(It goes without saying that Andalusians warmly embrace this new fiesta too: give it 15 more years and they might celebrate Chinese holidays: we are not seriously going to skip any chance to celebrate life and the community, do we?)

andalusian-balconyMuseums? Concerts?

Check: none.
Zip. Nada.
Zero.
(A digit that only found its way to Europe in the 12th century – via Andalucía, obviously).

Leave all that ado to other regions. The coast is but half an hour away anyway. We here in inland Málaga can’t possibly imagine this, that you have to book and print tickets and drive half an hour and struggle with car parking and queues.. to get a little culture.

We live in living musea and living culture. History, culture, agriculture, architecture, a local museum, a Peña Flamenca or a neighbour who still plays the Spanish guitar or very, very patiently and thoroughly puts his craft into a wooden door or creative ‘rejas’:  it’s all around us.

October is not to tick off items of your Bucket List. It’s for the true highlights of life: those you stumble over without any plan, and not a single moment of organisational stress or the paradox of too many choices.

Our lovely visitors have got watches and schedules and lists – and we have got time.

Ben

www.grapevine-properties.com 

One week till Moorish Moon!

Only one more week to go and it’s…  Luna Mora!
Mark the date, Don and Doña: September 9th and 10th. 

Luna-Mora-GuaroUnder a half moon and in the light of candles, our whole valley celebrates the one and only traffic jam of the year and the longest queues ever.

Pardon, that’s obviously not what we celebrate, these are the consequences though. If the past years are anything to go by, there’s one tip and one tip only: be on time!

If you still try to get into Guaro by 10PM you might wish you never tried. And try to be hungry before all others are – or only after 3AM – for even if half Guaro turns into a bar or restaurant, at some point in the night standing in line for an hour to conquer a chair is no exception.

Do it in the Andalusian way though and no night is more lovely, no weekend more romantic and stylish, as  the original and strangely appealing ‘Festival of the auditorium of  Luna Mora of Guaro’.

Sure, many a village has started to organise its own version – and still it’s in Guaro that the feel its ‘most Moorish’.  It feels real here. It’s one of those hyperboles of Al Andalus to be thought of an era of Muslims-Jews-Christians-living-together-in-peace-and-harmoney  – which in fact was only very relatively so, … historians found that in Guaro this was the case indeed.

(Be it possibly only for the ‘moriscos‘ – the muslim Moors who were forced to convert to Christianity – and the sephardim, the Jews who came via North Africa: not entirely kumbaya, it wasn’t the garden of Eden our imagination wants to make of it, but still pretty pretty Woodstock when the rest of Europe was still scared of people of a neighbouring village).

Luna-More-2016
Why not try it this way?
  arrive around 5 or 6PM, long before all others, so you still have the streets to yourself and see the slow build-up, explore the village before thousands do the same,  have dinner or a bite – so you are well prepared to disappear in the crowd later on.

The Friday evening is the more calmer one of the 2 nights, on the Saturday evening the streets are packed. One of these uniquely Andalusian traits though that makes us fall in love with this region time and time again… everyone is cordial, there’s not so much of a push or pull (and completely forget about brawls). Nobody needs to be reminded that it’s risky to sit on a candle, or that we all play a specific and needed role in our community and deserves respect and attention.

O, by the way, what are we celebrating?

The Moorish heritage of Andalusia – our southernmost region of Spain that lived under Moorish rule for 7 centuries: that is more than 6 centuries longer than all other regions of Spain, which is the reason for Andalucía to have such a distinct look and feel: the massive wall of mountains of the Sierra Nevada acted as a Berlin Wall for centuries on end.

‘The Moors’?  
90% Amazigh (= ‘Berbers’, the original inhabitants of North Africa) and 10% Arabs, who in the 8th century were so advanced in seafare that in 711 they were able to cross the Strait of Gibraltar and conquer Hispania.

Gibraltar means nothing else but Gibr-al-Tarik, or Mountain of Tarik, after the admiral who led the conquest. We could say we thank the word ‘gibberish’ to the Moors. Admiral, of course, is also a word stemming from Arabic.

Ever wondered why the whole world has more or less the same word for olives (olives, oliven, olijven..), except the Spanish who come from left field with ‘aceitunas‘. Arabic. ‘Gua‘ in the name of villages or rivers? Arabic (for ‘water’).

Not to mention that it’s the Moors who brought the knowledge of Aristotle and Plato to Europe,  and translated the ancient Greek philosophers into Latin, here in Córdoba, so that the Europeans who at that time still ate with their hands and were dressed in bearskin could also enjoy a bit of culture.

Townhouses-in-GuaroAll this we celebrate. The amazing motor of European civilisation that Al Andalus was.

For sure, more often than not we do not know how to do so. For the Moorish history of Guaro is buried and has completely disappeared – the current town was only found  after the Reconquista. The original Guaro (‘Guaro viejo’) was built around a Moorish fortress 2 kms out of the centre, where it was part of the defensive line around the Valley of the Guadalhorce.

Where we walk the nights of Luna Mora, used to be only the spot where the rich people withdrew in their farms, and only around the 15oos more houses and a church were added. What we do know: for sure there was no electricity. Hence the candles. The rest is an eclectic  attempt to convoke the 1900s, 1700s, … anything that brings us a bit closer to that ideal of ‘the tolerant colourful times’.

What to expect this year?

Impossible to predict. In its heyday you could see the occasional coach from Madrid or Barcelona arrive by 5AM: thus terrible were the traffic jams. And for all we know people might have been demotivated by the chaos of last year, and decide to stay away – and you and us and 5 die hards will be the only ones in the village. We can’t tell.

But, well, let’s face it: the ferias are all 1 or 2 or 3 weeks ago, so it’s high, high time for another one.

www.grapevine-properties.com

The last Bandolero of Málaga

How is it that Clint Eastwood has not yet made a movie called ‘Long Steps‘?

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Bandoleros – or ‘Bandits’

For that is the translation of ‘Pasos Largos‘, one of those infamous Malagueños that have got ‘film script’ written all over him:

He was the last bandit who hid in the hills and roamed the country roads of Málaga (some say of Andalucia, some even of the whole of Western Europe).

Apart from any stone in our valley already seeping with history, those of you who bought property in El Burgo and Yunquera are not only walking in the footsteps of Romans, Visigoths and Vandals, but also living in ‘Bandolero Country’: for it’s in El Burgo that Pasos Largos was born, and at a cave near Yunquera where he hid and was shot.

This was in 1934, after a lifetime of 60 years, of which a good 30 years dedicated to creativity with the landscape and the law – and having kidnapping as specialty. The mayor of Ronda was one of the victims, but especially the very wealthy landowner of Cuevas de Becerro who, at the time, was a person of such standing and national influence that it triggered the police station of all surrounding communities to go on a manhunt of epic proportions.

Pasos-Largos-Yunquera
Pasos Largos (1873-1934)

Mainly targeting the bourgeoisie or those high up the social ladder, resulted in some secretive popularity with those a few steps down.

Juan Mingolla Gallardo, by the way, was his actual name: born in  El Burgo in 1873,  and taking the name  ‘Pasos Largos’ over from his father who seemed to have had a peculiar walk.

Even if you have never heard this story before, if you have ever taken the road from Yunquera to Ronda it might not come as a surprise to you: you might not be the first to suddenly wish you brought music of Ennio Morricone.

In a province not short of breathtaking views, these in this corner of our valley still stand out. It is little wonder that the triangle El Burgo-Yunquera-Casarabonela is our valley’s top spot for anyone who loves horses, bird watching or hiking – or of absolutely stunning and unspoilt landscapes, and the real Andalusian life.

Monument-El-Burgo-Malaga
Monument in El Burgo

It might not come as a surprise that when ‘Long Steps’ was offered a job and finally found stability as keeper of a finca, he felt the pull of his adventurous life and turned back to the hills. And it definitely won’t be a surprise to hear that when the troops yelled “surrender or we are going to kill you”, the last words were: “Then kill me“! (Clint Eastwood, are you reading this?)

Today, the last Bandolero is largely forgotten – he has become the material of myths, making that one can find positive (admired by villagers) as well as negative (mean character) accounts – but mainly no accounts at all.

In 1985 a movie was made about him, and in El Burgo you still find a ‘Parque de Pasos Largos‘ with his bust, but that’s where his long steps in the sand of time start to become invisible.

The same El Burgo, by the way, where you can enjoy the XXXI Festival de Flamenco this Saturday August 20th – as of 23:00 on the patio of the Colegio de San Augustin in the centre of town.

Flamenco in combination with El Burgo – the experience can’t get more Andalusian than that.

With for example this song in the car: Don Quijote has quite specific definitions of ‘Bandolero’ and ‘Bandido’ but both terms are largely used as synonyms. All together: “Tus ojos, bandido…”

Grapevine Properties SL

www.grapevine-properties.com
Guaro, Málaga

The exquisite phenomenon of ‘Mañana’

9 out of 10 foreigners come to Andalusia for one thing and one thing only: The relaxed lifestyle!  In our heads we are going to embark on a journey of calm blue skies, siestas and inner peace. And then we fail miserably. 

MananaFor there’s one thing we didn’t include in our dreams: that we bring our stress with us. 
It has been compressed into us, day after day, decade after decade, layer upon layer.

So much so that anything stresses us. We get stressed by stresslessness and we get stressed by peace.

Not only does it drive us from within, with us helplessly running in its treadmill, we can also radiate it – and then, then we bump into ‘mañana’, also a great force having had centuries to ripen.

Just as our property search here is the culmination of years of dreaming up the perfect house: perfection being that other addiction of ours. So even if we then finally land in the oasis of rural life, the ploughing through renovations and decoration keeps us being more in our old life – than our new one. For we first need perfection, before we can enjoy the view. Once again not being on the same wave length of many an other culture.

Do you recognise the following in yourself?

Manana-is-zenHow nice that you come visit me!
Let me first close this window. Let me first get that chair out of the way. Let me first apologise that the table cloth doesn’t match the curtains yet and then first get you a drink. First I will put on some music and, oh, why didn’t  you let me know that you would come, so that I could have made more rice than the 465.50 grams that my husband and me eat. Let me first quickly prepare my personal very original tapa so that your visit will be memorable and you won’t think that I’m a bad host, and then, then we can relax. Oh wait, there’s a dog hair on that chair and let me first get that laundry out of the way“.

We probably have just reduced our lifespan by another 2 minutes.
(And increased our medical bills).

Sometimes you wonder whether we are addicted to organisation, as well as to the just-in-time societies we grew up in.  We first need this, before we can do or feel that. And we need time, much time in inland Málaga, before we realise it’s our own running that keeps the hamster wheel spinning.

Is it any miracle that the average Andalusian has a life expectancy that is 2 years longer than ours?  It could beg the question: who has got their act best together? Who is more free?
Let’s break it down in a very Aristotelian/northern way: point per point.
(A Platonian would just sing about it).

1. The healthy Mañana

SiestaWhat else is ‘mañana’ than the expression of:

For today the healthy dosis of triggers has been reached. This is the health line in the sand. From here on it’s information overload. Tomorrow I will be fresh again and fully yours. Gracias.

And by tomorrow I mean: that moment when I’m fresh again. If that is not tomorrow, then surely one of the days there after. At any rate ASAHP  – as soon as healthily possible.

This formidable heat pushes you to walk slowly, in order not to ruin that one good white shirt – and ‘mañana’ does the same for your one good mind and body.

For many an Andalusian, the laundry hanging there bears no relation to the happiness of the moment. ‘How nice that you come and visit me. Which I don’t even say for that goes without saying‘.

2. The dignified Mañana

Manana-the-nobilityJust as a warm, welcoming and festive one – there’s also a deep, austere vein running through Andalusian society.

It’s a vein of pride, a heightened sense of dignity and independence. Empire having had the time to be digested, lost, understood, purified, and ripened.

The way a village lady can stroll in the middle of the street and block the traffic, you’d think she’s the direct descendant of 15th century royalty.

I will not be pushed or pulled, by nobody, and that includes you. You will not impose your pace or impatience on me. You can try to dump your stress on me, but I reject – as a matter of fact, the more you try the more I will pull up the gates – I’m my own fortress“.

3. The rebellious Mañana

Bandoleros

One needs to be a very, very strong country and culture if you can cope with 160 million tourists a year, without it changing you too much. So it’s good that no region in Europe has been so far away from central control for such a long time, as Andalucia: the rebellious and dignified temperament will not disappear very soon.

According to the British writer Gilles Tremlett*, the Spanish passport should actually say something along the lines of: ‘The beholder of this passport is entitled to go anywhere and do anything he/she pleases, the way it pleases him/her’.

Do not forget Spain is the only country on the planet where anarchists actually made it to Parliament – as well as the birthplace of the picaresque novel, the fiction depicturing the roughish hero of low birth who lives by his wits and loves fooling Big Brother. Once a picaro, always a picaro.

“You raise your voice and say it has to happen right now? Then now your spot on the agenda goes from mañana to one week after that”.

Zen, the Latin Way

siesta-cordobaIt was the Daila Lama who said:

Man surprises me. Because he sacrifices his health in order to make money.Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.  And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived.

That is nothing but the Asian theory – to the inland Andalusian practise. Very hard workers, very long and hard days in the heat, but never ever forgetting to take a breathe, or celebrate the community and culture.

We know, we know…

We see our region in such a pink, rosy light that we probably need shades in mid-winter (at night, during an eclipse of the moon). For us it’s impossible to see a flaw in it – it’s a box with a never ending series of gifts in it.

(Isn’t that telling though, that one can still be in love with a region just as much as when we first moved to it?  15 years on?)

Anyway it could be a good test:

The next time you feel you are going to be irritated by someone saying ‘mañana‘, you can also see it as someone defending his or her peace of mind as a fortress: “I am the sole and fearless captain of my ship, my time and my feel of well being”.
It’s the precise opposite of being a ‘busy fool’. It’s stately.

Our grandchildren would say: it’s so Coooool.

Happy mañana’ing everyone!

www.grapevine-properties.com

(*) Gilles Tremlett is the writer of ‘Ghosts of Spain‘, a magnificent read packed with insights.